When
I moved to California and got a taste of that fabulous weather, the gorgeous
Pacific at my door and being surrounded by wine, I swore I would never come
home to Louisiana. One day the umbilical cord snapped and I blame it all on
that famous New Orleans sandwich, the shrimp po-boy, dressed with extra
pickles. In all seriousness, one morning I woke up and thought if I didn’t get
one soon, something deep in my genetic code was going to come unglued. I’d walk
home to Domilise’s in the Irish Channel if I had to.
Thankfully
I got a job in Lafayette and enjoy po-boys often, including slipping away to my
home town on occasion (if you haven’t tried the roast beef with debris at
Domilise’s, you’re missing out). Now, one of my favorite home boys and cookbook
author, Todd-Michael St. Pierre, has published a homage to the sandwich, “The
Southern Po-Boy Cookbook: Mouthwatering Sandwich Recipes from the Heart of New
Orleans.”
Naturally,
he offers a history of the unique sandwich on French bread — derived as a cheap
alternative to lunches for striking streetcar workers — but the beauty of
this cookbook is in the recipes. There’s everything from traditional oyster
loafs and roast beef and gravy to the eclectic, such as a pain perdue, eggplant
Parmesan and pecan-crusted trout meuniere po-boy. I’m getting so hungry just
writing this.
If
you’re interested in seeing St. Pierre in person he’ll be signing books at
10:30 a.m. Saturday at the Garden
District Book Shop in New Orleans,
then from 2 p.m. to 4 p.m. at the Friends of the Cabildo’s 1850
House Museum Store, 523 St. Ann St. On Sunday, he’ll be sigining at 2 p.m. at
Blue Cypress Books for the Oak Street Po-Boy Festival of New Orleans and from
noon to 4 p.m. Saturday, Dec. 7, at Copper Rooster Antiques & Gifts, 222
Lee Lane in Covington.
Here’s
a recipe for “The Benny,” literally eggs Benedict served as a breakfast po-boy.
From "The
Southern Po-Boy Cookbook”
Hollandaise:
2 egg yolks
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
1/2 cup (1 stick) butter, cut into small cubes
Poached eggs:
2 tablespoons white vinegar
3 or 4 eggs
Assembly:
1 (12-inch) loaf French bread, split and toasted
Canadian bacon or bacon strips
1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives
Directions:
In a nonstick skillet over medium-high heat, cook the bacon until crisp on both
sides. Remove and drain on paper towels. To make the hollandaise sauce, whisk
together the egg yolks, lemon juice, cayenne and red wine vinegar in a
small saucepan over low heat. Turn the heat to medium,
slowly add the butter, and whisk until the butter and the eggs are thoroughly
blended. If the sauce separates, add 2 teaspoons of water and continue to whisk
until it thickens.
To
poach the eggs, bring a sauté pan (wide enough to accommodate all the eggs
without crowding) of water (about 2 inches) to a simmer over medium heat until
water temperature is 180 degrees, and add the white vinegar. The water should
never boil. Crack an egg into a cup and carefully slide it into the liquid.
Repeat quickly with the remaining eggs. Cook the eggs until the whites are firm
and the yolks nearly done, about 3 minutes.
Meanwhile,
spread a little of the hollandaise sauce on the bottom half of the toasted
bread, and top with the bacon. When the eggs are done, remove them with a
slotted spoon to drain the liquid, and place them over the bacon. Top with more
hollandaise sauce, and sprinkle on the chives. Serve the top half of the loaf
with butter, cane syrup, or your favorite jam or jelly.
Cheré Coen is a Lafayette freelance travel
and food writer. She is the author of “Haunted Lafayette, Louisiana” and “Exploring
Cajun Country: A Tour of Historic Acadiana,” both from The History Press.
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