New
Orleans Chef John Besh not only learned from the best in America, but from many
experts in France and Germany. He highlights these mentors and his experience
in their kitchens, along with delectable recipes I would love to spend hours
creating, in his latest cookbook, “Cooking from the Heart: My Favorite Lessons
Learned Along the Way” (Andrews McMeel).
Chapters
run the gamut of “lessons”: creating a paella, cooking after a hunt, variations
on a potato and making a proper bouillabaisse, among so many others. Readers
travel to Marseille for mussels, for a delicate combination of salad
ingredients in southern Germany and peaches with Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise
from that Provencal town. It’s an admirable undertaking accented by gorgeous
photography that would make every foodie on your list squeal with delight.
Besh
will sign his cookbook, “Cooking from the Heart,” at 6 p.m. Tuesday, Dec. 3, at Garden
District Book Shop in New Orleans and at noon Wednesday, Dec. 4, at Barnes and Noble Lafayette.
For
something unique for the holidays, here is a recipe for shrimp, chanterelle and
pumpkin risotto from the chapter “The Art of the Table.”
Shrimp, Chanterelle
and Pumpkin Risotto
From “Cooking from the
Heart: My Favorite Lessons Learned Along the Way” by John Besh
3 tablespoons olive oil
½ onion, chopped
2 cups Arborio rice
1 sprig fresh rosemary
5-6 cups Basic Chicken Stock
2 cups diced peeled fresh pumpkin
1 pound large wild Gulf shrimp, peeled and deveined
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 ½ cups chanterelles or other wild mushrooms
½ cup grated Parmesan cheese
4 tablespoons butter, cut into small chunks
½ small bunch fresh chives, chopped
Leaves from 2 sprigs fresh thyme
Directions:
Heat the oil in a large, heavy-bottomed pot over high heat. Add the onions and
cook, stirring with a wooden spoon, until soft, about 5 minutes. Add the rice
and stir for another minute. Add the rosemary sprig, cover with 2 cups Chicken
Stock, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium low, cover the pot, and
simmer for about 5 minutes. Add another cup or two of chicken stock and the
pumpkin. Stir well, then cover and simmer for 10 minutes.
Season the shrimp with salt and pepper
and add to the pot along with the mushrooms and the remaining chicken stock.
Raise the heat to medium and cook about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Test
the rice for doneness: It should be soft, with a slight bite in the center. Remove
the sprig of rosemary and fold in the Parmesan, butter, and chives. Season with
salt and pepper and scatter thyme leaves on top. Serve immediately.
Cheré Coen is a
Lafayette freelance travel and food writer. She is the author of “Haunted
Lafayette, Louisiana” and “Exploring Cajun Country: A Tour of Historic
Acadiana,” both from The History Press.
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